Speaking and an Electrical Engineer, he’s right. Just plug the power cord into the PSU and install everything into the case EXCEPT do not plug the power into the MB (there is some power there even with the switch off in modern PSUs). After everything is in unplug the power cord and touch a wall outlet screw or anything else earth grounded then install the MB power supply harness into the MB. Plug the cord back in and you’re ready to go.
The safest way to go is to wear a static strap. Of course I rarely follow my own advice since I’m too impatient. :) It’s fairly rare to static zap something to death when putting a PC together but it CAN happen.
Can anyone give me any insight on heatsink orientation here? Lever on left or lever on right? I’m guessing it doesn’t matter and intend to go with the orientation I showed in the picture.
I just know I’m gonna do it one way, and then get a post 30 seconds later saying “whatever you do, DON’T orient the heat sink that way!” :?
But I cants stands the suspense no longer! I wanna build this box already…
Well I built the rig, so far not much luck. Getting an error code of 1 long beep followed by 3 shorts. What’s stupid is the manual doesn’t say which type of beep code the bios subscribes to. According to a Google search there are a couple different types. One uses 1L-3S to denote a memory problem, one uses it to denote a video card problem. Tried swapping in an old Gf2, same error, which seems to narrow it down to the memory issue (not sure though, it was an old card).
I don’t suppose anyone could shed any light on this? :(
Speaking and an Electrical Engineer, he’s right. Just plug the power cord into the PSU and install everything into the case EXCEPT do not plug the power into the MB (there is some power there even with the switch off in modern PSUs). After everything is in unplug the power cord and touch a wall outlet screw or anything else earth grounded then install the MB power supply harness into the MB. Plug the cord back in and you’re ready to go.
The safest way to go is to wear a static strap. Of course I rarely follow my own advice since I’m too impatient. :) It’s fairly rare to static zap something to death when putting a PC together but it CAN happen.[/quote]
Isn’t there a ledge or raised area on the bottom of the heatsink? At least there is/was on the old Socket A from AMD, to keep it aligned.
Well I have put in 3 different vidcards now, including one which I know works (because I’m using it right now on my old PC), and still no go.
I think it must be bad memory.
I will print out a list of compatible memory modules for that mobo and take it to Fry’s tomorrow, buy a DIMM there. I hope that’s what it is, because otherwise I just haven’t a clue.
These box-building exercises always end up costing more than you think they will. I wonder if they save money at all. :evil:
For what it’s worth, I don’t think the heatsink orientation is the problem in your system, Gordon. I would try the following steps in order:
Clear your CMOS memory; my motherboard has a jumper you switch out in order to accomplish this.
If it wasn’t a total bitch securing your heatsink on top of your CPU, you might want to try taking it off and reseating the CPU. If you thought you were about to snap your mobo in half with the amount of pressure you were exerting as you were securing the heatsink (my feeling multiple times), go to step 3.
Check memory as planned.
Is there any chance your power supply may not be up to par for your CPU/video card combo? I remember the last Athlon system I built was a bit of a power hog.
I hope the problem turns out to be relatively simple. Good luck!
Thanks, Sidd. I did clear CMOS already. I think the PSU should be fine… it’s a 480 watt that goes up to something like 18 amps on the 12V rail.
It can’t be a videocard problem so I’m thinking it’s either bad memory or just something with the mobo is borked in general. But bad memory doesn’t seem likely either, since I bought Crucial RAM and that is supposed to be the best quality. I did a little jiggering and finagling to fit the ram in and it’s possible I might have zapped something though I was wearing a wrist strap.
Anyone know how sturdy the housings for DIMMS are on a mobo? Can they take a little abuse, a little pulling out and putting in of DIMMS, etc.?
If another DIMM doesn’t do the trick I guess I will try another mobo. Anyone know procedure for transferring a CPU to a new mobo? I assume you need solvent to wash the goop off the top of it…?
I’m now building a new PC and aiming at a mid-tier system, basically something that can run everything at 1080p & 60fps. In all the suggested builds I’m seeing, everybody includes two storage devices: a standard 1-2TB HDD and a second drive, typically a 128-256GB SSD. I’ve never used an SSD but understand they’re basically much faster than HDDs. My question is this, what am I expected to put on that drive, just the OS? It’s too small to put any significant games on there (since so many AAA games now days are topping 80+GB by themselves), but I don’t really know what the expectation is here since I’ve never used one.
This is a build I’m currently eyeing and tweaking:
@kerzain
Yes, put the OS on the SSD for sure. Then you can swap games between the SSD and mechanical HD as necessary when playing one heavily that needs the speed boost (not talking about every day). Switching install directories with Steam is super easy and nice nowadays.
After the pre-built I bought failed to post, I opted to go the build your own route (sorta, I’m paying a friend from work to put it together, he’s really good at it.) I exercised no self control and ended up going way over budget, but I just bought a 1TB SSD. Wasn’t that much really (my current PC has the same size mechanical HD and it’s just over half full.) My SO has an Alienware with a small (256) SSD and it’s a pain managing games. I have an SSD at work, and the performance difference is really noticeable.
If budget allows, I’d really look at getting an SSD big enough to put a few of the games you’re playing on. The spinning drives are just supposed to be for your pictures, your music, etc. Once you’ve used an SSD, you’re not going to want to put executables on a hard drive.
You can find discounts all the time, and even the crappiest SSD is worlds better than a 10,000 RPM hard drive. NewEgg has a couple of 480GB SSDs for about $60, just looking at what’s on sale tonight.
If this is purely a gaming rig, just skip the 1TB hard drive completely and put that money towards a bigger SSD. If you do need room for digital photos, music, etc. then spend the extra $30 on a 500GB-ish SSD. You will not regret it.
