Gaming mice

I have the Logitech MX Master which is wireless but you can use it plugged in, too. I charge it about once a week. The latest model (2S) I think you only have to recharge once a month or so. It has a button on the bottom that can switch between different computers (up to three) via Bluetooth (one machine can use the dongle), which works surprisingly well for me. It’s basically like having a KVM switch but just the M.

The mouse has a solid feel and the pads on the bottom glide effortlessly on most surfaces. It feels like a premium mouse. Pricey but worth it, IMO. As a gaming mouse it’s fine unless you need a gazillion buttons or 100,000 DPI. It doesn’t have RGB lightning and doesn’t look like a Transformer.

Double-clicks are very common, if the mouse is new means a hardware fault, if old means the switches wore down. It can happen to any manufacturer, and I’ve had it several times with Logitech mice. Logitech just replaced 'em no questions asked.

I’m still on Razer Deathadder Elite. It hasn’t developed the double click yet, but I know it will. My last four mice had that issue, be it Logitech, Steelseries and more Razer Deathadders.

Excellent choice. I have had a number of the MX series, but I’m stuck on Anywhere MX for work and non-gaming. They are small, the USB nub is very small, they last a long time on two AA batteries, they have a shutter for “off” mode, and you can store the nub in the base when you don’t need the mouse. I think I own 5 of them total. Logitech makes excellent stuff, I’ve used them for around 20+ years.

I bought a razer naga hex a few years ago and refuse to go back. Those thumb buttons are a game changer.

Yep, Logitech was excellent about replacing every single one of my last 4 of their mice that had the double-click issue. So I cannot fault them for their warranty service. However, every one of those 4 mice developed the problem at right around the 6 month mark for me, and I just got tired of dealing with it.

Hence my switch to the Corsair M60 (which I just looked up my order for on Amazon, and I bought it August 29, 2012), which has never once given me a double-click when a single click was intended. I bought it because it was the only manufacturer that didn’t seem to have any reports of that problem. Different micro-switch supplier, maybe?

Mind if I ask which Logitech model? We buy a lot here, it would be good to know.

I had a MX super-deluxe pro, whatever their highest-end mouse was before the MX master, show the double-click issue. I’ve now used two G502s for several years and both are perfectly fine, so far. But it’s a mechanical switch, so it’s not going to last forever.

My issue with the doubleclick issue from worn out microswitches is thus:

In the last 11 years, I’ve clicked a mouse button across three major computer-destinations (home desktop, work laptop, and my old Dell laptop I used for all of college) about 11 million times. I’d estimate fewer than 1 million of those clicks were from trackpads and the like, so let’s just round off to 10,000,000.

Cherry MX keyboard switches are rated at 50,000,000 keystrokes. Since I’ve gone through about 6-7 mice in the intervening 11 years, I’m barely averaging more than 1 million clicks apiece, give or take. That’s pretty shitty quality.

I had the exact same experience with my Razer. I continue to use it though. The last mouse I bought was the Microsoft Intellimouse back in 1999, so I stubbornly hold the Razer to the same standard. A mouse should last 17 years damn it, not 2 years. So I will stubbornly keep trying to use this Razer for the next 15 years.

(I will keep an eye on this thread for suggestions on what to get in 2033 though).

Tom’s Hardware had a write up a while back on how those mechanical switches are the remaining item that needs a solution.

So what’s the issue here? Switches. The humble switch is the only remaining mechanical component still used in modern mice if we overlook the cord. While most PC enthusiasts associate switches with electricity, they’re still mechanical systems performing an electrical function, which makes them inherently susceptible to wear from friction where different components rub together and material fatigue where these components are under mechanical loads, both static and dynamic.

And even though switches may look ideal at macroscopic time scales, with a contact closing and opening, they’re not so binary as seen from a digital circuit’s point of view in millisecond and less time scales.

This combination of less than ideal mechanical and electrical contact properties are the reasons why debouncing (the process of filtering or processing switch inputs to hopefully eliminate mechanically-induced glitches) is necessary when interfacing switches to logic and micro-controllers. As switches age, their characteristics degrade to the point of exceeding the debouncing circuit or algorithm’s parameters, letting glitches through with increasing frequency and severity.

This makes me wonder, for those of you that have them, how do Apple’s Magic Mice hold up? I know they are not gaming related, but they are switchless right? Aren’t they haptic based?

Magic Mouse sucks for ergonomics.

I can kind of see that. It looks as though it was designed more as art, not as a human interface device.

Three G7’s in a row, six months apart, followed by one G700. After that one went bad as well, I gave up. Maybe things have improved since then; I’d have no idea.

Thing is, I did a lot of research on this out of pure frustration. The Logitech response was “Don’t push down so hard on the buttons”. What? All of your previous mice are still working fine 15 years later, and now suddenly they are not lasting 6 months, and it’s my fault?

Most people I’ve talked to that owned those same mice say they’ve never had the problem, which always puzzled me, because how could Logitech be sending me replacement mice 6 months apart, and if most of their stock is good, how could I keep on getting bad ones repeatedly over all that time? All of them brand new in original packaging. Tested on multiple computers, with and without Logitech’s software.

That surely sounds like a model issue, it’s also surprising if it happened that much to you that Logitech wouldn’t know about it.

They knew about it. It was all over their forums back then, and other models as well.
I’ve still got all of the broken mice, thinking that some day I’d learn how to replace the switches. I really loved my G7’s, other than that.
Yet when I talk to people on forums like this, it’s there, but rare. [shrugs] It’s not something I worry about anymore though. My Corsair is going on 6 years now with zero issues (and I also bought a spare, just in case).

I did the same thing with my Func mouse when the company stopped making it. Shame, because it’s id recommend it in a heartbeat if it were available.

My G502 stopped being able to double-click and I am using its free RMA replacement from Logitech now.

Another vote for the G502. You can turn off the RGB crap.

My G502 lasted about 9 months. Unfortunately I threw the packaging et al away after 6 months, thinking it was fine. Bad move! No warranty for me. I mean, other than being mocked on a regular basis by my wife about how fucking stupid it looked, it was a great mouse. Let’s see how long this cheap MS mouse lasts.