Just a little bit more info on the MOCA network. When they came and installed my Direct TV last year I found out the hard way that they use MOCA network to move information from the DVR to the satellite boxes. Which really sucks as I was using one to extend my wifi downstairs. Supposedly Comcast uses one too, however it didn’t interfere with my home MOCA network.
I have some coverage in the basement, but I would like to improve it. What is the cheapest way to do that?
My desktop is in the basement, and connected to the internet through a power outlet, which works great, but we have a Roku box at the far end of the basement that just get enough coverage, so increasing the wifi signal would be great.
Yes, FIOS does the same thing with MOCA. But you should be able to switch channels and avoid interference.
Lego, instead of plugging your desktop into that power outlet ethernet jack, plug-in a router in bridge AP mode. Then plug your desktop into the router, and use its wireless for your roku box.
Stusser do you have a recommendation for a moca network that works? The one I have (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013J7O3X0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) doesn’t have a way to change the channel on them.
From brief googling, DirectTV uses DECA, which is a bastardized version of MOCA that isn’t interoperable.
However, you can buy DECA to ethernet adapters dirt cheap on Amazon. It’s kind of crazy just how cheap these adapters are. And they supposedly work pretty well, but I haven’t been able to find how fast they are. I’m sure at least 100Mbit.
If you get cable TV or cable internet, don’t buy these. They run on the same frequencies and will interfere. This is only for DirectTV users or cord-cutters who aren’t using their coax cabling for anything else. Like, if you have FIOS and don’t use Verizon’s MOCA to distribute video to your STBs.
If you already have a regular MOCA 2.0 adapter setup, can’t you just move EVERYTHING to that, drop DECA entirely, and hook your DVR boxes up via ethernet through the actiontec MOCA instead? Or do the boxes have coax only?
Here is the current Router I’m using, and it’s been great for the needs of the home.
The question is, what do I need to keep in mind when buying an extender? These are the three I found on Amazon for under 21 dollars (I have a gift card to use)
As I mentioned, I just want to extend the wifi, either into the garden a bit, or the basement.
I’d go for the same vendor, although it seems a bit silly to be paying for obsolete N hardware in 2017.
That is a fair point. Maybe I’ll hold off.
I have an amazon 12 off coupon for the Netis, bringing it to 17 dollars.
If you’re going to buy, get something good. I have this router myself and get full gigabit speeds with 2 dozen separate clients. It’s essentially a RT-AC68U for half the price because it has T-mobile branding.
@stusser I have a RT-N66U , would it be worth upgrading to this AC-1900? I know very little about network hardware. :|
It looks like the one you linked offers 4x the bandwidth?
AC is much faster and supports beamforming, which will probably improve your signal strength in the 5Ghz band, which is nice if you live in an urban area. It’s not a big deal, but I certainly wouldn’t buy a new N router today.
Ugh. . .
SteelSeries Sensei Raw giving out for the 2nd time in about 2 years. Thinkin’ they’re not gonna replace again, and even if so, I’m not sure this is exactly what I want.
Looking for palm mice, on the bigger side of things with ideally not too much GAMER ANGLEZ N ARR GEE BEES all up on 'em. Ideally 7ish buttons (L, R, Middle, then forward/back and scroll up/down, my most common current mouse actions).
Logitech is still my go-to, although they’re a little pricey compared to some other options.
Albeit with LOTS of gamer anglez, this is a great mouse on a good sale (the G900 series is now the hotness, hence the discount):
Razer Deathadder is always a solid choice.
I can testify to both of these statements with regard to Logitech.
I’ve had 4 high-end Logitech’s in a row fail due to the double-clicking thing after roughly 6 months each. Three of those four were brand new replacements Logitech sent me under warranty, and they did not require me to return my faulty ones.
But after the fourth went bad, I gave up on them. I switched to a Corsair M60 five years ago, and have had not one single problem with it. Totally in love with the thing, although their newer versions (like the Corsair M65 Pro) are probably improved, although I can’t see how, because to my mind, the Corsair M60 is perfect, though apparently no longer available.
Hmm. I see the newer M65 Pro is optical, while the M60 is laser. The plain M65 (non-pro) is also laser. I wonder why that is. Is optical better in some way?
I went with the new Deathadder after my Sensei Raw’s middle click died. Several months now, still happy. Hoping it will last more than a year.
For those concerned about the gamer anglez (I was) - they do not seem to affect the feel of the mouse in-hand. I have an older G600, but my son has the G502 and it feels different of course, but not… sharp as the looks would suggest. It can go on sale for $40 depending on level of patience.
I have G502s at home and at work. I dislike the “gamerz” look also, but it is a very comfortable mouse. Happy with it.
Agreed. G502 FTW.