Yeah, I repaired the door seal on our leaking dishwasher. The seal was $60. Still cheaper than a new one.
And the roofers actually paid us for their mistake. We got a check for the cost of the new dryer. So we bought a new washer.
There is quite the community around restoring old woodworking tools, heck they tackle just about any big metal tools. Have you check out OWWM?
Yes! Great site for finding old manuals and identifying old machines.
So. Had the roof reshingled a while back. Today the diningroom ceiling started leaking. Checked upstairs, no water to be seen. Today is the first day it hasn’t rained in a month. What are the odds that this is rainwater from a roofer fuckup that has finally percolated down?
BRB calling people.
Think it might be the AC. Guy is coming by.
Edit: So yeah, AC. Guy was here, drain line was clogged and an evaporator pan overflowed. It wasn’t going on too long so mold won’t be an issue.
Well that turned out a helluva lot better than what you suspected.
This is a good excuse to have a party! On the roof!
My AC condenser unit is upstairs, as is my water heater. I’ve had this issue from both. I asked when they were by for repairs to put in a tap on each drain, it’s like a u run up from the line that drains out of the house. I pour mixed bleach/water through them both once a year which kills some of the buildup, then run regular water and pull it from outside using a shop vac. No more calls for that since. It sucks, but here in the south it’s so damned hot you just get gunk and growth on that drain water since it’s wet so much of the year.
And sorry to hear about the ceiling. How big is the water spot?
The spot isn’t big. Now that it dried you have to know where it is to see it. I like the tap idea, I’ll have to look into that. Thanks for the idea.
I was more worried that the water was dripping out of the smoke alarm. First I was worried that it would go off. Now I’m worried that it won’t. :) Tonight will be the test. I’m baking.
Forgive my messy 20 year old attic space. This is one of the U joints mentioned. I had the cap off of it for cleaning early season. You can see the drain coming from the right side of the pic with the run going out side leaving at the bottom left. The other run for the water heater is straighter, I wasn’t hovering around the A/C guy who did this for me, but the result still works.
So my dish washer handle was loose on one side, and the GE repairman said it was easy to fix yourself (he was out for a refrigerator issue I couldn’t fix myself). I tried to do that tonight, but after I undid the last screw I discovered the spring mechanism that was holding the door upright was no longer holding the front panel and it slammed down into the ground, ripping out this flat cable from it’s connector. This is what connects the door controls for starting the wash to the control box on the inside of the door.
It looks to be a standard dupont style connector on the one end with 20 pins. The other end is run into the control panel which is a wafer thin touch strip that is glued into the top of the door. I don’t want to f’ with that so I am hoping I can repair the cable.
I tested this with some various connector blocks I have with my PC and sure enough I was able to put side by side individual connectors. So pretty sure it’s the dupont style connectors/ jumper pins we all know and love from our motherboard headers.
I am hoping I can jury rig 2 1x10 dupont blocks side by side and solder or wire glue it to this cable. But I am worried the wire glue may be too fiddly and solder may just melt the cable. I do have a temperature adjustable soldering pen but I rarely/never use it.
So any tips or ideas or totally different tangents? Some parts I need arrive Thursday so will be trying to fix it some way or another.
On the bright side I did fix the handle.
I ended up spending hours trying to solder or glue something to that cable. I found some youtube videos with people accomplishing it with both techniques but let me tell you - it was way beyond my skill levels. The tin or whatever the wires in the cable are would just melt away faster than the plastic encasing it, and sanding it was crazy crazy fiddly. I actually got two leads working and exposed but when I needed 18 more I just decided it would be unbelievably fragile if I did pull it off.
So I ordered a new control strip for under $100, which I just installed successfully. Better than a grand for a new dishwasher I guess.
Yeah, those are as thin as circuit board traces. Not impossible. But I wouldn’t care to try it.
Just replaced my dishwasher, which is an install job I’ve done 5 times now because I moved my last dishwasher with us and installed the one from the new house back into the old house too, and took this one apart once to replace the motor assembly. It makes me laugh/cry that the hardest part probably is properly getting the insulation blanket tucked around it correctly while you’re sliding it into the gap. Not the other things you need to do that feel like actual trades work, but getting the damn blanket not to bunch up and block it from sliding.
Took way too long to get right, as usual.
Figured I’d get this done before it gets hot. Forcast is for 80’s most of next week. Replaced the 15+ year old insulation on the A/C cold line that runs from the house to the unit. It was is really bad shape. Sadly I didn’t have any black zip ties.
I pulled the weed after I took the photo, heh.
Now is the time for condenser cleaner as well. I’m glad you posted this as it just reminded me it’s time to do that here at the house. We’re slowly moving to AC-always-on mode here in Charlotte.
Ah I just hose it off every other year, it got a good cleaning last year where I oiled the fan motor (there is a tiny hole on the side of the motor with an arrow that says oil), hosed the coils down, and had to someone come out to tell me I had a bad capacitor, because it was making a weird noise as it hard started.
Also you need to hose from the inside > out to get the most dirt off the coils.
Over the long weekend I went around and replaced the bib washers and packing on most of the sillcocks around the house. Most were leaking in one way or another. I’ve got one more to go, which is of course the oldest, most corroded, most broken (water sprays far and wide from both the handle and vacuum breaker when on) and the one that goes to most of my drip lines.
I’m also going to do my first pvc pipe project as I’ve got to cut off and replace the hose connector on the PVC pipe that goes to the irrigation valves.
Then later today I’ve got a new home automation capable irrigation controller I’m going to replace the current one with.
After that a last walk around to see if any of my trees needs another dripper on them and finally the irrigation system that was all messed up when I bought the house will be fully repaired and in service as the first big heat of the season descends on the sierra foothills.
Just in time what with the heat we are getting this week. 106 maybe today and tomorrow.
I finished replacing both the irrigation panel and the hose connector. Have to pressure test the new connection in the morning but the whole thing went pretty pain free.
Holy crap does PVC primer stink. I just popped open the can while inside to break the seal so it’d be easy to open once I was gloved up and ready to go. I swear I could smell it hours later. Still it was nice to use one of my r95 masks for it’s intended purpose instead of grocery shopping.
Make sure to always store the primer right side up, that shit will leak through the threads after you open it even after you reseal it; it’s so thin and volatile.
I put the bottles back in the box it they came in. After shaking the bottle and just giving it it twist to break the seal I saw how it instantly leaked around the cap.
Now I’m tempted to run a bead of silicon around the cap since it is probably going to sit on my self long enough to go bad.