I think there’s something funky with my house’s wiring because I tried it a couple of years back (when the Steam Link came out) with some TPLink brand ones and they didn’t work at all. 5 GHz Wireless N worked way better.
I have heard that if your house wiring is not all on the same transformer or loop or whatever it’s called, that powerline is useless and won’t work.
That must be it. I’m gonna see if any family members can use them at their places, otherwise I’ll offer them as a freebie here.
I might try that other coax-based thing, though.
By “the same line” do you mean the one line coming from the pole on the street to the house? Because I only see one of those, even though I had two additional cable jacks put in when I bought my house 22 years ago.
Unfortunately, I don’t quite know what I mean. I’m not sure how new jacks are “tied” together with older ones. The previous owners of my house had satellite installed at some point, and those coax jacks don’t work with the others.
I would guess, though, that if you can get your current cable service from each of the jacks in your house, then you’re probably good to go. If you’re like me and don’t have existing to service to test it, then I suppose you’ll just have to give it a shot when you get the adapters.
In the U.S.: power from the utility comes in 3 “hot” power lines plus a neutral return. (Actually this isn’t quite the way it works, but I’m simplifying.) Each line delivers 120 volts relative to the neutral, but 208 volts relative to the other lines. Some appliances require 208 volts (e.g. electric dryers and ranges), so the utility delivers 2 of the 3 hot lines plus a neutral to each house. The 208 volt appliances get 2 hot lines and a special plug and outlet configuration so you don’t accidentally plug things into the wrong outlet. Everything else in your house uses 120 volts, so all of the other outlets (i.e. almost all of them) have a single hot line and a neutral going to them. (The hot line goes on the smaller prong of a standard U.S. NEMA 15 plug/outlet configuration.) But two hot lines are going to your house and many people don’t even have any 208 volt appliances (e.g. if they use gas appliances) so to balance power consumption on each line, the house is wired up with roughly half of the outlets being fed from one line and half from the other. (Usually every other breaker in your breaker box is on a different line.) Powerline across the lines does supposedly work, but it relies on antenna pickup between the phases at the transformer, which seems sketchy to me.
2nd highest selling!
Does deleting a game on the PS4 delete data files and saved games for that game as well? Unfortunately I keep on running out of disk space. If deleting just deletes game code, but keeps saved files, I guess it wouldn’t be too hard to just delete a lot of my games, but I’d hate to lose my game saves.
Pretty sure deletion only removes the installed game. You keep all your saves. Those are a separate file deletion.
This is correct.
I haven’t done this myself, but you can also upload your saves to the cloud:
Saves can be backed up to USB as well.
You need to be an active PS+ member for that.
True enough, but my PS4 Pro has failed to recognize every thumb drive I’ve tried so far, so I’ve written that option off.
It may be that it reads FAT32 not exFAT or NTFS.
I believe that’s correct. It must be FAT32 formatted.
I believe I went with FAT32 (googled while troubleshooting) but I’ll have to double-check.
I’d forgotten how oddly hard it is to charge the PS4 controllers. None of them charge by directly plugging them into a USB/wall charger. Most USB cables are apparently not compatible. I can either plug them into the PS4 directly, while it’s on, or I can use one particular Anker external battery - the other two external batteries won’t charge them either - with one of two particular cables. No other combinations works.
I plug it into my PC using the cable that came with the controller. It works.