The one that immediately springs to mind was in Marrakech. We were there during Ramadan, which meant it was somewhat difficult to find food during the day, but not impossible. Made for an interesting trip.
We had two amazing meals while we were there. One was a super expensive (by Moroccan standards- about $60/person) 10 course dinner in this big ‘palace’ - a big multi-story building with a completely open central courtyard all the way up. Every table was basically a balcony table, rose petals were strewn on our path to sit down, roaming live music players, etc. It was good. I don’t remember much of what we ate, or the name of the place- it was 15 years ago. Sue me.
Here’s the thing, though. While things were quiet during the daytime, at night the Jemaa el-Fnaa- the main plaza- would turn into a huge street party about two hours after sundown. Acrobats, storytellers and tons of food stalls. Each food stall had the name of the proprietor and a number, and nearly all had a big spread of meats and veggies on display- you’d sit down and point and pick and they’d throw them on the grill. We tried a few of those, they were good.
But in the very middle there was one stall. Hassan #37. No spread. Kind of a raised central grill, constantly billowing up huge clouds of smoke and flame. It was different. So on the night after we had the expensive fancy dinner, we sat down at Hassan #37.
There were no choices, just some basic questions even I got the gist of- ‘both of us eating?’ (yes), ‘do you want water?’ (also yes). So he sent a boy to go run and get us bottled water and turned around to get the first course. He produces two small bowls of tiny lamb sausages (about the size of lil’ Smokies) and some soft bread. So we dug in, and they were the best lamb sausages I have ever eaten in my life- and I’ve made plenty of my own (grew up doing charcuterie with my grandpa before becoming a professional chef). So we scarfed them down and when we looked up he was gesturing like ‘do you want more?’, and of course we said Hell Yes. So he goes over and ladles something into a couple of bowls, sets it down in front of us. Some sort of chopped meat, onions, peppers, little bit of thin broth/juices. More bread. So we tear off chunks of bread and use it to pick up the food, sopping up the juice along with it. Holy shit, it was divine- soft and flavorful and Holy Shit and all that. I was completely gobsmacked. So I try to ask what it is, he’s not understanding, my gal translates in French. He nods and reaches down and pulls out what is unmistakably a giant floppy raw sheep’s liver. I’m like ‘ok, then, thanks!’ but somehow that didn’t come across and he though he’s offended me. So as I’m eating he tries to reach in and take my bowl back and we have a little tug-of-war for my bowl, while I’m trying to protest that this is the most delicious thing I’ve ever eaten until he was satisfied and let us finish. That meal cost us about $5 apiece, if I remember correctly.