Windows 10

Of course…it fails even from fresh bootable media.

Could not find much on that error. It’s not security software conflict - I removed MBAM and a few other extraneous things before trying (though I did not use their complete removal tool).

Could be out of date drivers? I don’t really have any extraneous stuff plugged in, other than various internal drives, M+K and monitors.

A Win10 ‘reset’ does not preserve apps and data, right? So I can’t really do that, then the upgrade. If I have to faff around unplugging internal shit or refreshing various system drivers, I may as well just bite the bullet and do a clean install. Fucking Windows…same as it ever was…

Apple has borked the iOS upgrade on some devices at times. I ran into it with my sister’s phone. Almost had an annureyism because she came thisclose to losing hundreds of photos she hadn’t backed up, including the only photos of her father-in-law and her kids before he died. I was only able to save it a few days later, after Apple rushed out an updated OS. And that’s on fixed, closed device that Apple knows backwards and forwards.

To put it mildly, Microsoft sucks ass.

About a week ago I was rebuilding a machine for my daughter. The OS on the side of the case was a code for Windows 7 and I decided to build it with Windows 10. So I created an account on their website and purchased Windows 10 from their store. I then performed a brand new install on a reformatted hard drive. It worked fine except I couldn’t active .NET 3.5 for my daughter’s older games. Windows 10 simply would not allow it to activate. The only way was to create an ISO image, except their horribly shitty Media Creation Tool failed on 2 different Win 10 machines.

I spoke to 8 different MS techs and not one could solve this issue. We did everything - permissions, total reinstall, reinstall-in-place, patching, etc. They finally said I’d have to pay for support to get their product working. Fuck that noise. They should be paying me for my time troubleshooting their busted products.

So I got a refund. That should be the end of the story, right?

Nope. I woke up today to find an email saying that my Microsoft password has been changed. I did not submit such a request. Three unauthorized charges were submitted to my credit card from Microsoft. So now I have been forced to cancel the card.

Even stranger, the existing password had only EVER been used on Microsoft and only from a freshly build machine with nothing but Avast running on it (it is the first thing I do when building a machine). That password is literally a week old and has only ever been used on one machine going to one website, which is theirs. So there is almost no doubt that someone within Microsoft has sold my account information because there would be no other reasonable way it could be obtained.

So my experience in the last week has been dealing with their broken products, trying to get a refund and then having someone on their side compromise my credit card information. Fuck Microsoft with a pointy stick in their ass.

Yeah. Fucking Apple…same as it ever was…

That truly sucks. Did you reach out to MS about the issue? Sometimes they are good about giving out gift cards and the like when the screw up that badly.

At the very least, there is someone who definitely needs to be fired over there for selling customer information.

Who the heck are you going to tell? They do not seem to have any contact information on their website to actually get in touch with anyone.

Good question. I have had mixed results with MS, but never as bad as you described.

So all my drivers are up to date - mobo stuff anyway - no updates for any of those since 2015 anyway. Cleared up some additional free space on system drive ~27Gb. I think I might try and disconnect all but the system drive, remove one of my GTX970’s and then give it another crack.

I assembled a new Ryzen-based system yesterday and was surprised all my low-level drivers and everything were detected/updated in Windows 10.

Well shit…that looks like it worked.

Bit annoying I had to go tot extent of opening up the PC and unplugging things to get the upgrade to work, but seems I am there now.

I assume it’s safe to delete the windows.old folder anytime I feel confident that the upgrade is stable?

Yes, but you’ll need to use the built-in disk cleanup program to do it. I think windows deletes it automatically after 31 days.

That’s correct. MS figures a month is long enough to decide if you need to revert; after that, Win will automatically remove the old Windows installation.

Somehow in the last month, this has fixed itself. I accidentally hit sleep mode instead of shutdown the other day, and it actually worked properly. No idea what update fixed it. According to my update history there have been 5 Windows updates since the Fall Creator’s Update…guess one of them did the trick.

Well, it stands to reason media based 1709 upgrade went ahead and installed, or at least auto upgraded to a borked audio driver. Worked fine for eight hours, then the mic just stopped working mid RS6 game.

Turn off diver updates with OOSU10, uninstall device, reboot, reinstall legacy known good divers, reboot, VIA HD vDeck does not work in Anniversary update (go figure, it was fine before), hack moving some 64 bit exe’s as workaround, reboot, think I’m good.

Wonder what will happen next!

Righto, this VIA audio chipset might be a problem. Mic stopped working again tonight, fixed it again by uninstalling and re-installing. Windows had done an update, but I had disabled Windows Update driver updates via OOSU10, so it should not be that…theoretically. Grrrrrr.

I have a spare PCI-E slot, so may need a standalone card. Is anyone using a standalone card with Win 10 1709? What is it? The cheap ones available - Xonar DSX/DGX and Creative FX/RX are quite old cards, some of which have not had driver updates for a few years, which worries me in terms of just repeating the problem. Word on the street is the Xonar drivers are problematic with a 3rd party diver being more effective, even though it has some rather severe known issues with 1709. I can’t even get Asus official driver download page to freaking load properly in Chrome or Firefox to see how old the most recent drivers are!

Both Creative and Asus’ ‘newer’ cards are annoyingly expensive for a simple on-board replacement.

Damn you Win10, I was having such a good run.

These things are complete commodities these days. Every USB set of headphones has a DAC integrated. You can easily get away with something cheap like this and never know the difference.

https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/

If you really want to spend a bit more money, get a Modi 2. It won’t sound better unless you have expensive headphones, but it certainly looks better.

Note you will need a little L+R composite audio to 1/8th inch adapter also to plug into your amplified computer speakers. And if you want to run headphones off it, you will need a separate headphone amp, they sell one of those too. It has a vacuum tube on it so you know it’s worth the $150.

https://www.schiit.com/products/modi-2

They also sell the Fulla 2, for the unlikely name of “Fulla Schiit”, which integrates a DAC and amplifier for headphones, and also has a pre-amp output for powered computer speakers. It isn’t as popular as the Modi 2 + Magni solution as most audiophiles use headphones and the Modi/Magni supposedly sounds better (not that you would notice) and most computer people have amplified speakers. It has a pleasant knob on top that you can twiddle.

http://www.schiit.com/products/fulla-2

Actually, yeah, sounds like that will be orders of magnitude less pain.

$15 - alu-fucking-minium!

I may have to pick up that Fulla 2. My old Logitech Z680s headphone jack is mostly broken, and the light died, but it does power the speakers fine. So I was thinking about picking up an additional sound card and routing the headphones through that, since they make several with decent headphone amps. But that’s external, which is a plus and it looks great.

So instead of plugging in the headphones I would just switch audio outputs in the OS. Hrm. Sounds better honestly, I obviously plug/unplug enough to ruin a jack over time.