SmallNetBuilder does test some of that, but notes that, “if using wired backhaul, speeds are the same as the primary AP/Router,” so, no degredation in speed via backhaul, you’re just limited by the speed at which the APs operate for access, which is heavily tested and reported on that same site.
In commercial speak, what the vendors are starting to do is manage connections across their mesh. So, starting to bring some of the advantages of enterprise WLAN controllers to the home. Specific to Google product, that means auto speed selection, auto channel assignment, and closest AP response is added, but some of the other enterprise features are not, like AP client balancing,
Usually, if you mix vendors or even product lines, you aren’t going to get those features. You’re right though, a decent AP solution would work. It just might not have a small number of additional features because it’s not all-in-one and therefore managed.
Well, this is a first, Orbi firmware 18.104.22.168 (I noticed from the “firmware update” page on the router web UI) and zero release notes.
The web site has release notes, but they amount to this, so not helpful:
“Fixed few bugs.”
lol that sounds like my typical commit notes
Hey, I have a Netgear R7000 Nighthawk running DD-WRT v24-sp2. It’s an very old firmware now and has been giving me stability issues over the last few months. In the hope I am not experiencing HW degradation, I am going to switch it over to a much more recent flavour of Shibby’s Tomato firmware, latest version v140 from May '17.
Correct me if I am wrong, but given I am already running DD-WRT, I can skip the typical required pre-flash shenanigans and just throw the tomato .trx firmware on there from the DD-WRT interface, correct? @stusser, looking at you, buddy!
Fuck consumer routers, they are all shit.
I recently put gargoyle on my router and I like it a lot. Very straightforward to turn on a plugin and block ads on my whole home network. Recommended.
I suggest clearing your NVRAM, flashing official firmware, clearing NVRAM again, and then flashing tomato.
Just clearing NVRAM and flashing over would probably work, but better play it safe.
To block ads on your home network, try Adguard DNS on the router. That’s what I used when I had an old 32bit iPad without content blocking support.
Whoops…er, I appear to have bricked it…
You followed what I said and still bricked it? Damn.
Try a 30-30-30 hard reset.
If that doesn’t work unbrick via tftp. Note timing matters here, you only have like a 4s period to start the TFTP when the router tries to boot.
Well…I couldn’t be bothered to flash back to stock and read a few places that seemed to indicate a flash direct from DDWRT to Tomato would be fine, mainly presuming you ran a show_psswd to get the hash beforehand as they use different encoding, or something, and use that to log into tomato before running another nvram clear.
But, no dice. Just failed in the flash, I think. Bah, Laziness cost me! I suspect it is recoverable, but I ain’t having any luck so far.
It seems stuck in a boot loop of some sort. A constant ping alternates between TTL-64’s and TTL-100’s every 30 seconds or so with dropouts in between. When it’s TTL-64 I can hit a login prompt on Chrome, or telnet to it, but no combo of passwords works and it seems to drop out, then return at TTL-100. When at TTL-100 I cannot successfully tftp to it with either TFTP2.exe or the windows client, at this stage. Got TFTP2 running constantly at the moment hoping it may be a timing issue. I’ll have to cycle through some passwords though, as TFTP seems to want one and fuck knows if it wants the default DDWRT, default Tomato, my actual DDWRT password, or the hash.
Lol, I’m an idiot. Though, in fairness, I am an idiot that had a fucked router to begin with - it rebooted itself 3 times in quick succession when I came home this arvo prior to me attempting the re-flash, so for all I know it shat itself again during the reflash, causing the brick.
Fucking consumer routers. I swear it does not matter how much I spend, they are all toast after 18 months.
Haven’t tried a proper 30-30-30 yet, but I read conflicting statement that it does not work on the newer ARM models anyway. I’ll give it a crack.
Ahh. Well, I did tell you to flash to stock first, so at least my conscience is clear!
Just 'cause your conscience is clear does not mean I don’t hold grudges! :D
But, nah, you win some, you lose some, and I fucked this one myself.
I think it may have been fucked anyway, been nothing but problems for the last few months, accelerating in the last couple of weeks - flapping connection, wireless problems with clients connecting and forcing reboots, iPads not connecting reliably - just the usual weird shit. Probably should have just done a DDWRT factory reset to isolate if it was HW issue first, but c’est la vis.
So has anyone tried the Amplifi system? I’m a little surprised there’s only one mention in the thread. I’ve seen several of the tech folks I follow mention it as a great system, but Wirecutter wasn’t that excited about it. Their main concerns seem to be with the satellites (they come apart and have no wired jacks), but I’m thinking of using two of the routers connected via Powerline Ethernet.
My house is two floors, about 2300 square feet. The cable modem is in the office above the garage on one end so first router would be there. I would locate the second router on the ground floor in the family room on the opposite side of the house. It would save about $50 ($266 vs. $311), eliminate the satellites (which I don’t think I’ll need with this setup), and give me wired access in both locations.
Any thoughts, or has anyone had recent experience with the Amplifi?
No, but powerline is generally mediocre. Go for MOCA if you can.
fun discovery: Netgear R7000 nighthawk has AP isolation forced on by default and has no web UI elements to toggle it if you use it in AP mode
Hey Gedd, I have nothing to add since I got Plume instead, but wanted to share this with you:
We have 6 Eps left.
So awesome to not have Okita in bed for the entire series.