DIY Appliance Repair

Yesterday, our glass top stove had a burner stop working. I was wondering why it was taking so long to bring the water to a boil. It turned out that burner quite part way through. The hot element warning light was on, so it must have failed part way through the cooking. Looking ta some Youtube videos, replacing the burner doesn’t appear to be too difficult Open it up, remove it from a mounting bracket and unplug some wires then do it in reverse. It doesn’t seem to be any more complex that swapping a hard drive.

Has anybody done this particular repair before? Are there any things to look out for?

My stove is a Kenmore, so I’ll need to figure out what stove it is based from to figure out the part I need.

It’s very easy I’ve replaced it many times

I think I got batches of bad burning elements or particular burners were out of spec because I had to keep replacing.

Get the right size element they are different diameters.

I have a kenmore stove with a similar problem. One of its elements doesn’t stay on very long although if you turn the element up to full power, it will start acting normally. I had some appliance guy tell me the element was fine, but the control mechanism was broken. He wanted to charge me $275 to fix it. I passed because a brand new range was like 500 bucks and the current range is like 14 years old.

Is this an easy thing to fix? I tried to google some videos, but it really was more along the lines of element replacements rather than this control thingy.

The door lock on my Bosch washing machine wouldnt lock and this would stop operation, we would have to slam it again and again before it would.

So i looked it up, saw it was an easy replacement, ordered it from a reputable supplier i had used before, removed door seal, unclipped lock, put in new one, clipped in lead, resealed, tested and it worked fine. I patted myself on the back, reminded the wife how lucky she was to marry a handymanengineergenius and…

Went to put in a wash a few mins later and it was locked in place. Factory resets wouldnt do anything. It was locked shut. Spent a few hours trying to get it open before giving up.

As the machine already had 2 callouts and previously replaced mainboard and other bits and wasnt drying well and 8 years old I just gave up and ordered a new one.

I had the mechanical valve on my washing machine replaced ($200+), still had problem. The problem is loose control lead. I’m convinced this is the case for you because you say slamming the machine helped.

You know these molexes, for me its they get loose

I open the top, reinsert them and the machine is good for a few more months. I’m sure there’s something that needs to be resoldered or whatever but I have no idea how to do a continuity test and I don’t know how to solder.

Unless your device has huge capacitors then it’s usually relatively safe (for your health, not necessarily the device) to work on it AFAIK.

Thanks. I will have to give it a go although I guess I should verify that it is actually the burner element at fault and not the switch.

It turns out not particularly difficult troubleshooting. A visual inspection of element showed a burnt spot where was obviously no longer any continuity. The appliance parts store was helpful in finding my replacement. It have a 15-year old Kenmore stove, and the part is no longer made. After some digging around by the sales guy (he had to go to microfiche), he found a compatible replacement element. He warned me that it was very likely that wire connections wouldn’t be in the same order / location, and that I had to be careful to match them by label. He was right. I did get that all wiring connections sorted out but, found that the material in one of the other burners was disintegrating as I jostled things getting the replacement back in the bracket.

In the end, my wife looked at me fumbling around with the stove and the possibility of another burner needing replacing (and our oven door is wonky and the convection fan no longer works)… “Why don’t we buy a new stove?”

Our radon venting fan died. Looks simple enough to replace, but apparently the manufacturer only honors the 5-year warranty if the thing is installed by a licensed contractor. Guess I’ll see how much one charges vs the do-it-myself price (~$140).

The link-bots are following me around qt3 today (see roof repair thread…)

But it reminds me to follow up - a couple of randomly chosen companies wanted $400, and both asked if they had done the original install. When I got hold of the company that did do the install, they also asked (original install was 10 years ago). They charged $200. I have no idea what weird thing is going on in the radon-abatement industry, but for $60 over the cost of the fan on Amazon plus the 5-year warranty, I had them come out and do it. Took the guy maybe 5 minutes.