Yesterday, our glass top stove had a burner stop working. I was wondering why it was taking so long to bring the water to a boil. It turned out that burner quite part way through. The hot element warning light was on, so it must have failed part way through the cooking. Looking ta some Youtube videos, replacing the burner doesn’t appear to be too difficult Open it up, remove it from a mounting bracket and unplug some wires then do it in reverse. It doesn’t seem to be any more complex that swapping a hard drive.
Has anybody done this particular repair before? Are there any things to look out for?
My stove is a Kenmore, so I’ll need to figure out what stove it is based from to figure out the part I need.
I have a kenmore stove with a similar problem. One of its elements doesn’t stay on very long although if you turn the element up to full power, it will start acting normally. I had some appliance guy tell me the element was fine, but the control mechanism was broken. He wanted to charge me $275 to fix it. I passed because a brand new range was like 500 bucks and the current range is like 14 years old.
Is this an easy thing to fix? I tried to google some videos, but it really was more along the lines of element replacements rather than this control thingy.
The door lock on my Bosch washing machine wouldnt lock and this would stop operation, we would have to slam it again and again before it would.
So i looked it up, saw it was an easy replacement, ordered it from a reputable supplier i had used before, removed door seal, unclipped lock, put in new one, clipped in lead, resealed, tested and it worked fine. I patted myself on the back, reminded the wife how lucky she was to marry a handymanengineergenius and…
Went to put in a wash a few mins later and it was locked in place. Factory resets wouldnt do anything. It was locked shut. Spent a few hours trying to get it open before giving up.
As the machine already had 2 callouts and previously replaced mainboard and other bits and wasnt drying well and 8 years old I just gave up and ordered a new one.
I had the mechanical valve on my washing machine replaced ($200+), still had problem. The problem is loose control lead. I’m convinced this is the case for you because you say slamming the machine helped.
You know these molexes, for me its they get loose
I open the top, reinsert them and the machine is good for a few more months. I’m sure there’s something that needs to be resoldered or whatever but I have no idea how to do a continuity test and I don’t know how to solder.
It turns out not particularly difficult troubleshooting. A visual inspection of element showed a burnt spot where was obviously no longer any continuity. The appliance parts store was helpful in finding my replacement. It have a 15-year old Kenmore stove, and the part is no longer made. After some digging around by the sales guy (he had to go to microfiche), he found a compatible replacement element. He warned me that it was very likely that wire connections wouldn’t be in the same order / location, and that I had to be careful to match them by label. He was right. I did get that all wiring connections sorted out but, found that the material in one of the other burners was disintegrating as I jostled things getting the replacement back in the bracket.
In the end, my wife looked at me fumbling around with the stove and the possibility of another burner needing replacing (and our oven door is wonky and the convection fan no longer works)… “Why don’t we buy a new stove?”
Our radon venting fan died. Looks simple enough to replace, but apparently the manufacturer only honors the 5-year warranty if the thing is installed by a licensed contractor. Guess I’ll see how much one charges vs the do-it-myself price (~$140).
The link-bots are following me around qt3 today (see roof repair thread…)
But it reminds me to follow up - a couple of randomly chosen companies wanted $400, and both asked if they had done the original install. When I got hold of the company that did do the install, they also asked (original install was 10 years ago). They charged $200. I have no idea what weird thing is going on in the radon-abatement industry, but for $60 over the cost of the fan on Amazon plus the 5-year warranty, I had them come out and do it. Took the guy maybe 5 minutes.
Has anybody ever repaired the coating on their dishwasher rack? The tips of some tInes have worn away and the metal below has a bit of surface rust. I see repair kits that have paint on material and caps that go over tines. Fifty bucks will get me some stuff called ubergoop and a large number of caps. It’s likely a lot cheaper than a replacement rack.
I don’t think those do the same thing. I’d be concerned about the ability of the material to hold up to blasts of hot water and detergent as well as what might be leaching out. Performix, which makes the plastidip you suggest, also makes ReRack which is specifically for repairing dishwasher racks.
Yeah, not sure. I thought you said it was $50 for the ubergoop stuff so that’s why I was thinking of an alternative - but then after your comment and I looked on Amazon and the re-rack ubergoop stuff is only $12-15 with end caps. Where are you seeing $50?
So I bought some Ubergoop and tine tip covers to deal with the rusting on my dishwasher rack. There’s not a lot of rust on the rack but I figure it’s better to deal with it before it becomes a bigger problem. A rusting problem never gets better by ignoring it.
The Ubergopp is smelly so I did the work outside on the deck. Although not all the tines are rusted, I decided I would cap them all as many of them looked like they would become a problem soon. I tried a dry fit with a cap and it was a very tight fit. I used a hair dryer to warm up the caps and made them a bit more pliable and easy to slide on with the goop on the tines.
It wasn’t very hard to do. The bottle was marked light gray but it looks more white than gray to me but whatever. So long as it holds up, I don’t really care much about a colour match for a dishwasher rack.
Might as well put his here. A toilet is like an appliance, right?
Anyway our back bathroom toilet started leaking. It was the bolts that hold the tank on. Water drained, feed off.
In the past I had fixed toilets with the same issue with plumber’s epoxy. Once the tank was dried out I covered each bolt end with it. Once it hardened there was never anymore leakage. This stuff is good. And it does not stop you from removing the tank if you need to.
So the wife was doing a run and I asked her to pick up some epoxy on her way.
She came home with all of the hardware to replace the bolts. That would include a washer that goes between the tank and the seat part. Which would entail removing the tank and the water feed.
We seem to have an issue with the water feed. Usually after futzing with the guts of the toilet, they always ended up leaking.
So I asked her why she didn’t just get the epoxy. She said that the guy, in the plumbing aisle, had never heard of plumber’s epoxy.
The fuck?
She was at Lowe’s.
I asked her if the guy she was talking to was maybe from gardening or somewhere else. Nope, that was his space. I could not convince her that he was full of shit.
So I ordered a tube of the good stuff from Amazon. Arrives tomorrow.
Then I checked the Lowe’s website. They have many different kinds of plumber’s epoxy.
