I’m still using my Logitech MX-510. Any new mouse I buy is compared to this one in form and feel, as it is very close to ideal. You’d think that I’d buy G400 as replacement, but I don’t like the edges on the thumb buttons. (It’s such a minor gripe, but it gives me an excuse to try other mice.) I would have stuck with Logitech/Microsoft, until a neighbour showed me his DeathAdder. That’s when I decided that it was worth spending good money on a nice mouse.
I use a G700 at home and I love it so much that I wound up getting another one for the office.
Something I learned while competing /w FPS games. Built-in Win acceleration simply upsamples and costs you resolution. If you are serious about having good mouse precision you cannot run any pointer speed past the middle.
There’s a little more to it if anyone cares that much. I think some CS player wrote a guide on how to totally eliminate acceleration in Windows. There is even a console utility to verify you’re really getting 1:1. I don’t compete, but it’s reassuring to know its set right on my end if I ever notice odd mouse behavior.
Logitech M570, because trackballs are the bee’s knees.
I may be the only person who uses a trackball for gaming, but it’s served me well over the years, and the M570 is a very good one. I tend to like trackballs because they don’t really require moving around on a desk. They also don’t really require you grip them, so your hand is really just resting on it while doing your thing.
Lots of folks can’t really ever get used to them though.
I used a trackball for many years, then switched to a mouse. I much prefer the mouse for gaming.
Hmmm, I just wrote a fairly long follow-up, accidently hit “cancel” instead of “post quick reply,” and don’t feel like writing it out again.
The short version: after hours of use for work and gaming, I still like the Sensei best. The RAT7 I do not like, I just can’t make it comfortable, and I’m gifting it to my stepson.
The Deathadder is fine but somewhat less aesthetically pleasing than the Sensei. The Deathadder does have a tracking issue: when used on my desk, it fails to register very slow movements. This cleared up when I started using the “Razer Sphex mousing surface” I also ordered. It’s just a mousepad, which I haven’t used since the 90s, but it makes a surprisingly big difference to the performance of all three mice, and I recommend picking one up (but maybe a different brand which doesn’t insist on plastering cheesy logos all over it).
Alan: I didn’t get a Logitech because I didn’t much like the look of or the coating on the G500 I could demo locally, and because I simply wanted to try a different brand.
I’d like to resurrect this thread as I am looking for a replacement mouse*. Preferably a gaming mouse, specifically the Razer DeathAdder 2013 to complement my new Razer BlackWidow Ultimate. The thing is, I used to own a Razer Krait, at that time, this mouse wasn’t the higher end of Razer mouse. After 2 years of using it, I notice that the rubbery surface started to peel. So the left hand mouse button looked as though the skin has peeled off. Very ugly and icky. I was disappointed because this was a expensive mouse, even though not high end, but my cheapo Logitech lasted longer.
Now the DeathAdder is considered a high end gaming mouse and one of Razer’s best. I also know that it has the same rubbery surface, perhaps things have improved over the years. Have anyone used a DeathAdder from years before. Does the surface peel off?
- PS. I am currently using a Logitech Marathon wireless mouse which I am pretty fed up with. It was designed by a deranged person who likes to torture users by putting the lazer at the right side of the mouse, instead of the standard middle location. Because it is not in the middle, accuracy in both desktop and gaming are pretty whacky. Who in the world designed such a monster? Don’t ever buy this junk!
I’ve had my DeathAdder (the 1800dpi model) for 4.5 years now and its still going strong. Nothings peeled off or anything and the buttons are fine too. Definitely still happy with it and thinking of getting one for my new PC at work.
However when I checked out the 2013 DeathAdder, I noticed the surface isn’t quite as “smooth” and rubbery as the original and feels harder which isn’t necessarily a bad thing.
One bigger issue is that Razer has decided that the new DeathAdder needs to be ONLINE for the driver to work, as apparently onboard memory was getting too expensive… So if you are regularly offline and would like to swap profiles, you are out of luck. This was a knockout criteria for me, as the work PC I wanted to use it on is not connected to the internet.
You might want to consider the previous model of the mouse, as that one still has offline drivers (as well as the old rubbery coating).
I thought Razer caved on the online driver thing after the scathing community feedback?
Edit - Nope, not entirely. There is an offline mode, but you still need to login to use the installed client app. To change your mouse settings. Stupid.
I’m not so disturbed by the lack of on board memory as I don’t move the mouse from PC to PC. So, that perfectly alright to me. I’m just concerned about the choice of coating that they used. Why can’t they use the metallic coating that’s popular in Logitech mice? Are they worried it will slip off the competitive players’ sweaty palms? That one is really durable. Oh well.
They say you have to be logged in, but then there’s this:
Razer Synapse 2.0 has both an online and offline mode. When the user has an active internet connection, Razer Synapse 2.0 will save and sync personal user settings to the cloud in real time. Once the user loses their internet connection, the settings will be retained on the local machine in the offline mode. Users will still be able configure and create new settings in this offline mode and these settings will be cached and stored (on the local machine) until internet connection is restored and it will automatically update to the cloud; providing a seamless user experience.
I just got an Orbweaver, so I could try and see, but that certainly makes it sound like you can make configuration changes when offline.
Yep, but I think you still need to create an online account and log in at least once. I don’t know if the revised version of Synapse 2.0 will just let you install and use the drivers completely offline.
Ah ok, from your earlier post, it sounded like you had to be online to make any changes at all.
Yeah, I think that’s how it was before customers got upset about it, then they put in an offline mode.
If you just got an Orbweaver, any chance you can confirm it you still had to create an online account just to get the drivers to install and work, or did they just work out of the box with Synapse 2.0?
It would be interesting to know for future reference.
I had already set it up unfortunately, so not sure.