What does go live mean in this context, on sale?
Well it will certainly be announced, unknown if it will immediately go on sale then or maybe in June.
Ok, PC built. It was mostly pretty easy, except wiring, which sucked as much as I expected. Everything is jammed in there, but you can’t see most of it since its behind the motherboard. NZXT H700i has tons of stuff for wiring, but there was still so much bulky stuff that just wasn’t fitting.
I did liquid cooling with the NZXT Kraken 62, but I kind of regret it. It’s very loud and I can feel the vibration in the table it is sitting on. I don’t have all the NXZT software installed yet though (letting Windows do it all of its updates), so hopefully that will adjust it a bit.
After the price, and time and stress of setting it up, I don’t think I will build my own again. I would rather just open a box and plug everything in. Not that this was bad by any means, I just don’t find it enjoyable, and its really not that much cheaper.
Do you have any way to put the pump on an acoustic decoupler? They sell them and there’s also that sticky stuff you can get from McMaster.
Ewwwww.
It’s not the pump, it’s the fans on the radiator. There is a problem though, one of the fans is at max speed and I can’t figure out why. NZXT’s documentation is almost worthless, so I think I might have the fan plugged into the wrong spot.
Plus the software doesn’t see the liquid cooler half the time. Still seems to be working, but the NZXT software doesn’t show it. Getting close to just scrapping it and getting a regular heat sink/fan.
It sounds like you’ve plugged one of your radiator’s PWM fans into a 3pin fan header on the motherboard. Could you connect the fans to a single line using fan splitter cables, and then all the radiator fans will be driven from the one 4 pin fan header on the motherboard?
Thanks, but I found the problem, not that I understand it. I had it hooked up right (the radiator fans hook up to a cable on the pump) but I reset the fans power connections and now they are both adjusting as need be.
I don’t get why that worked, power seems to be a pretty binary thing, but whatever, it’s all working now. And very quiet when idling.
I would have suggested the same thing…checking how and where the radiator fan draws its power. I was suspecting that you plugged it into a non-adjustable 12V connector. Your motherboard should have some connectors that can control the fan speed dynamically based on the CPU temperature measurements.
It’s not that I plugged it in to the wrong connector, the fans go to the wire coming off the pump. The pump is plugged into the CPU fan connector on the motherboard. I got everything right.
I think I have a bad fan on the case though. If I plug rear fan into one of the smart hub connectors it will only work if I hold the connector. If I let go of the connector, it stops spinning. When it stops it makes one of the radiator fans go at full speed. I can plug it into the same connector as where the radiator fans go, and it works, but there too, it sometimes makes one of the radiator fans go at full speed. But if I tap the connector, eventually everything settles down and works right.
I found a post of someone with a similar problem, and NZXT support said he had a bad fan and sent him a new one. But right now, everything is working, so I am leaving it.
Ok, stupid question time. Should I download all the drivers listed for my motherboard on the Gigabyte website? (Intel serial I/O driver, Intel INF installation, Intel Management Engine Interface, Bluetooth drivers etc.) I did do the firmware one. Doesn’t Windows 10 take care of the drivers for me?
Nope, I manually updated my network port drivers just yesterday.
Windows 10 does install drivers but they will be months old. I’ve seen the Nvidia drivers be 9-12 months older before.
The only drivers I bother to update myself are my GPU. Who cares if your network card drivers are months old?
Can be a good idea to do motherboard/IME to deal with security vulnerabilities though.
Fixing the IME stuff requires a firmware upgrade which is a much bigger deal.
I tend to let Windows install all the mobo drivers it can, then I install the GPU driver manually, then go into Device Manager and check for yellow exclamation marks to see which drivers Windows didn’t find. Those are the ones I d/l and install from mobo website. When there are no exclamation marks left, I go out and celebrate.
That’s the right way to do it!
I fell down a rabbit hole of reading some home built PC troubleshooting threads, not that my new PC seems to be having any troubles. But it led to a couple of questions, if anyone has a moment please.
I didn’t really mess my BIOS. I updated it, made sure nothing looked odd etc. Don’t really care about overclocking. Anything in particular I should look out for or change?
Should I be running any test software? Stress test it? Something that looks for any problems? CPU-Z is a good one? Should I brother?
Thanks for any advice.
Personally I would leave it alone if everything works. Stress test it with an ubigame :)