Grognard Wargamer Thread!

I am far from done, so far I have only sorted the Americans, British, Germans, Soviets, Axis Minors and Japanese in these 5 boxes:

So the organisation is not final and I will shuffle things around before I am done. This will be in a few months’ time, in my next trip to Spain (for now I am taking the finished boxes home with me to California).

But, as an example, these are the British counters (the empty half tray right now has Soviet lend-lease and captured vehicles, so British and Soviets fit in 5 trays total)

The central pockets in the second and third tray have lids (which you can see above the photo). The large one in the third tray is useful for pliers and other accesories.

For instance, the US counters take up almost three full trays (mostly because there are a lot of squad types including the Pacific). The Japanese fit in one tray, plus the remainder of the third US tray. The Germans are 3 full trays.

I don’t think I will need labels. For the infantry, leaders and SWs the setup is always the same. The large guns are all together and can be found at a glance (they are just sorted by type and caliber, sometimes two calibers fit in the same cell, but this is obvious). For the vehicles the easiest way is an index file (search for a vehicle and it tells you in which drawer it is) rather than small labels. But I don’t think I will need it, because I have my own weird system in my head (they are organised the same way as my 15 mm miniature collection).

Thanks, that’s exactly what I was wondering about. I don’t know ASL, but I have a ton of detailed games that end up requiring a homebrewed storage solution, and this often means coming up with some organizational principles. I’m just wondering how you guys do it with all those hundreds upon hundreds of tiny chits. I’ve seen the binders for the rules books you guys use, but it never occurred to me to wonder how you organize all those chits.

Of course, now I’m looking at those cool little treys and thinking about the wargames I have with chits rolled up in baggies. Baggies! Ugh. How low class of me.

-Tom

A lot of people sort ASL vehicles by movement points, then by caliber. This is very practical but I personally don’t like, for instance, having different kinds of Sherman tanks all over the place, alternating with other tank models.

So, where did you get this and how much did it cost? It looks great and it will save a lot of space in our new apartment.

They are made to order. You can inquire at the email address printed on the box lids. They are not cheap, as you can imagine.

Just to follow up David’s post: there is a guy in Bratislava who is doing these.

A full set is 155 Euros, which I think is like twelve cents. The shipping to the US is 55 Euros, so 210 Euros for the full set shipped to America, home of ASL. Oh, and magnets are extra, at 60 Euros. 270 Euros, then.

He is taking pre-orders for next year, he tells me. He can give you a link.

EDIT: There is also a half-size order for 85 Euros, but shipping is the same. Full size stores 7100 counters, half-size stores 3500 counters. Clearly, the extra 100-counter efficiency in the full size makes it the best deal!

I just ordered a full set. He says he will be starting production some time after the New Year.

PS calling @tomchick

Nice. Now to figure out how many counters I have…

For reference, what you can see in my first photo is two sets, plus extra lids and magnets. I had them shipped to Spain to save some money and also because that’s where my counters were, taking advantage of my Christmas visit.

Ah that’s very helpful! Looks like I might need to double my order!

I really recommend ordering some extra lids (each is € 6, including magnets), because being able to split the boxes into small sets is a great feature.

Also, in the standard mix the ratio of 1/2" to 5/8" counters is too high. This is not a big deal, since I will need more trays anyway, but my next order is just going to be 5/8" trays.

Ordered. You win this round, Geryk.

-Tom

P.S. Or not! The cost of shipping from Slovakia successfully deterred me!

Ok, so let’s see… Beyond Valor (original)

2,396

West of Alamein:

1,264. That’s 3,660. Already through the half-size.

Yanks:

1,048. Now at 4,708.

Gung Ho!

1,008. Up to 5,716.

Code of Bushido

Only 660. But we now have 6,376.

Hollow Legions:

  1. Up to 7,028.

Croix de Guerre:

  1. That’s 7,666. That’s more than the large kit, and it doesn’t include Last Hurrah, Armies of Oblivion, or any of the reprints, the HASLs, any third party stuff….

Imma need three of these.

This was purely a gratuitous quantitative title ownership show-off play!

I think the key is to get the larger set, and if you don’t have enough counters to fill it, buy more copies :)

There is no actual proof that I own any of that. I could have gotten a buncha pics offa Internet!

Dark Summer on the table, part way through turn 2.

The Commonwealth forces nearly took one hex of Caen on turn 1 but some appalling dice rolls meant they couldn’t get into the city. Elsewhere all is going to plan as the US is about to encounter the bocage and start moving to isolate Cherbourg…

First impressions…

I’m really not sure about how the designer treats the difference between the US and Commonwealth forces in the chit mixture. The US get’s 4 chits in the early turns and each is a Move / Combat chit, the allied player can’t choose more than 2 Move or Combat in any one turn but as each one is drawn the choice can be made to either move or fight. The Commonwealth gets 3 chits (fair enough) but has to choose between either 2 Move and 1 Combat and 2 Combat and 1 Move, if the Move chit is drawn there is no choosing it has to be a move and vice versa (there’s a wrinkle the Allies can pull once per turn each to get round it) but this apparently reflects Russell A Hart’s conclusion that the Germans were the most tactically and operationally effective at adapting to the unexpected problems of Normandy, followed by the US and then “the Canadians and even more the British, struggling throughout the campaign to catch up”.

I haven’t read the book but my reading wouldn’t really suggest that to the degree the designer has included it at all. Now there’s no doubt that both Monty and Dempsey were not happy with various formations performance post D-Day (7th Armoured and 2nd Canadian Corps in particular were accused of being “sticky”) but I don’t believe that the Commonwealth were particularly slow in working out Infantry / Armour co-operation compared to the US troops for instance, I believe the Commonwealth troops were the first to cotton on to the fact that the first thing you had to do after taking a position was to dig in, get your artillery online and zeroe’d in and bring up the support because a counter attack would surely happen and it was a good chance to chew up some German units, something the Germans never learned from and continued to do throughout the Normandy battle and beyond. In addition Dempsey was the only one with any real experience of planning and executing combined arms amphibious assaults on any kind of scale whatsoever, so I suspect he had more knowledge about how it would go than anyone.

Another example is the designer changes the rules for the US fighting in bocage on Turn 7 because “by then they had developed the Rhino” I think in that case some acknowledgement of the role the Commonwealth forces had in developing the funnies and utilising them on D-Day and beyond would be reasonably fair.

Nevertheless it does give three distinctly different challenges for a turn depending on which side is currently drawn and that’s a definite plus.

The D-Day beach assault is carefully managed in all it’s glory but having played the first turn 3 times now to ensure I got it right I’m not sure all the chrome is necessarily worth it. The first turn basically tacks 4 rounds on to the front of it. 1st wave, German Reaction, 2nd Wave, German Reaction. 3rd wave then arrives with the first move chit drawn for the US and Commonwealth.

For instance the Ranger Battalion assault on Pointe Du Hoc has at least 2 modifications to the CRT just for it’s first turn assault to give it even a reasonable chance of pulling it off (in my game they got wiped out by the stronghold while in the process of destroying it with an Exchange result in their 2nd Wave assault after bouncing off it in the first wave) All to get a 3 strength single step unit ashore in a place which makes very little difference to the situation in the bridgehead. I get that it’s an iconic assault but so is Pegasus Bridge and that get’s no treatment whatsoever.

The Allied player would have to roll incredibly, incredibly badly not to get ashore by the end of the 3rd wave and in the vast, vast majority of cases will be ashore and established at the end of the 2nd wave (and I have absolutely no problem with that). I am not sure the amount of exceptions to the rules to make it work are really worth the while since if the landings go really poorly it’s probably time to reset and have another go but I also get in a game about D-Day the allied player probably wants to recreate The Longest Day, Saving Private Ryan et al and woe betide any designer who leaves the beach assault out!

Once the beach assaults are out of the way, however, and the turns settle down there’s a rip-roaring time to be had I think. The Germans need to think extremely carefully about the placement of their forces and where to put their reserves. The Allies have units with massive movement values and leaving a single hole in the line will lead to probable complete disaster which makes for a tense round every time a chit is pulled. The Germans get two reaction chits they can play any time to move either a stack or formation and the decision making around these is crucial I think. There is plenty of scope for the Allies to make feint attacks and shift their axis of advance to take advantage of the limited German reserves and this makes their part in the game equally challenging and rewarding.

All of the above is tied in with the weather which is chit drawn for an entire turn from a pool. Once that weather chit is drawn it is discarded. So the amount of each type of weather is fixed, but when each one happens is random (a nice touch and better than a die roll I feel) and tracking the exceptions to things depending on the weather can be a little daunting, fortunately someone on BGG has produced some handy card references to help (you can see it on the table in the picture). Each exception makes perfect sense but there are a lot of them…

To itemise just a few…
Germans can’t use road movement during Cloud and Sun turns
Allies can use tac air once per round (ie chit draw) during Cloud and Sun, once per turn during Showers and not at all during Storm and Rain
Allies can use carpet bombing during Cloud and Sun only
German attacks are shifted 1 column left (ie a bad thing) during Cloud and Sun
Allied units check for attrition during Storm and Rain but not otherwise
German movement for clear terrain is 2MP instead of 1 for Cloud and Sun turns

So a cracking game I think, essentially a very simple and clean set of rules (no dice modifiers for the CRT!! Just terrain modifiers shifting the odds columns and amending the CRT results in certain circumstances for instance) but a ton of exceptions that need to be borne in mind all the time as you progress.

A disciplined player with an orderly approach will probably take this all in their stride but someone with a more freewheeling approach to play might spend the game thinking they had forgotten some crucial rule modification the entire game I reckon…

Stout Hearts by Ben Kite is a relatively recent look at the Commonwealth forces in Normandy. Perhaps not as mind-numbingly hard-core as some of the operational studies I’ve seen solid and thorough, and does I think a good job in dispelling al lot of myths about the Commonwealth performance that summer.

Much of our (meaning American) sense of the campaign from D-Day to the breakout has been shaped by very US-centric history which simultaneously overstates some of the American accomplishments and understates much off the British and Canadian performance.

You might be able to get the magnets cheaper.

We used to use a lot of those for making Geocaching containers and would buy all sorts of different sizes. They were pretty cheap.

Yeah, I bought a job lot for magnetising my 40k armies when I was doing that. I’m sure you can get them for less than 60 euro’s…