I played it on PS4 a while back. It’s an adventure game with wacky 2D art in a 3D series of locations. Minimal if any platforming. I had a positive impression, but got distracted & didn’t finish.
The mind-reading gimmick was pretty cool, they played the NPCs’ thoughts on the controller speaker at low volume so you’d have to hold it up to your ear. Not sure how they would handle that mechanic on the Switch.
Is somebody keeping a list of Nintendo Switch friend codes or network IDs or whatever the heck they think we should be using now? I’ve tried using the old-style codes in the QT3 Gamertag spreadsheet, but the Switch always says unable to find your friend when i try to add people using those codes.
Is there something else I should be trying?
My code is SW-8140-3543-2052 if the folks active in this discussion want to add me.
Thanks
Diego
Appreciate the input.
My Switch code is in the sheet but I don’t think many others are. The old ones are for 3DS I think - the new Switch ones start with “SW”.
(SW-0697-8175-1309)
Oh, ok! So I’ll look for any with the SW prefix, thanks.
Weren’t we supposed to be done with friend codes by now :(
The pain of friend codes has been reduced by 50 percent.
Mid 2018, Nintendo’s online infrastructure will allegedly appear. They might even mention this in the January Direct.
It’s likely that Nintendo will accept various sorts of social ID soon, Facebook, etc.
And… we’ll see what stupid stuff they add… like whether they really intend to use a cellphone as a necessary part of communications.
Ugh, so apparently there’s no way to buy games to add to my Nintendo account in advance of setting up the system? I wanted to take advantage of this week’s sale on Mario + Rabbids and Has-Been Heroes, but when trying to add to cart, it just says to go to the system. And the system’s safely tucked away in the closet until Christmas…
FYI, I don’t think Has-Been Heroes is on sale anymore, but you should be able to do so:
Digital Game Purchases Through Nintendo.com FAQ
A Nintendo Account is required to purchase games through the online Game Store. For Wii U and Nintendo 3DS game purchases, you will need to link your Nintendo Network ID (NNID) to your Nintendo Account before you can complete your purchase.
To purchase a game, complete the following steps:
If you haven’t already done so, visit http://accounts.nintendo.com and create or sign in to your Nintendo Account.
For Wii U and Nintendo 3DS purchases, create a Nintendo Network ID (NNID) on your Wii U or Nintendo 3DS family system and link your NNID to your Nintendo Account.
Locate your game on www.nintendo.com and follow the on-screen steps to make your purchase.
Your game will be automatically downloaded to the system associated with your Nintendo Account (Nintendo Switch) or Nintendo Network ID (Wii U and Nintendo 3DS).
Make sure that your system is connected to the Internet and meets these download requirements.
For pre-purchases, the game will be pre-loaded to your system at the time of your order. You’ll be able to start playing it after downloading a small update, beginning at 12:00 a.m. ET on the game’s release date.
For additional information about this process, please click http://en-americas-support.nintendo.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/12384
Yeah, I have a Nintendo Account and a NNID, and I’m signed in to both. But when I try to “buy digital”,
Not the end of the world, guess I’ll just set pull it out and do the initial setup in advance. Annoying though.
Apparently you have to link the system to the account and access the Eshop once. Then you should be able to do it. Makes sense, I suppose. It will only let you buy a switch game if the account is linked to a switch
Correct. You need to have the Switch linked to your account. I think this is done to prevent people from doing some kind of reselling thing on sale items by selling the entire account associated with them or something. It makes sense as a fraud prevention mechanism.
Random Tip. According to some random Reddit guy, the recent Xenoblade skinned version of the Pro Controller fixes the D pad. Others seems to anecdotally agree.
He broke it down and showed the peg underneath is longer, and the rubber membrane underneath is softer. It’s probably the same on more recently made standard black ones as well, but there is no way to tell when buying one of those.
So anyway, if you’re shopping and the d pad matters to you…
Others anecdotally disagree and say it’s the exact same d pad.
Though if it is better I’ve been thinking about picking up a second for multiplayer, anyway…
I’ve started playing a bit in docked mode, and it seems like my right joycon seems to have occasional connectivity issues if it doesn’t have line-of-sight with the switch (behind my body). It doesn’t disconnect, but button presses don’t register until LOSS is restored.
Is this common, or is this the issue people had been talking about, that was solved by Nintendo adding some additional conductive foam or whatever to the controllers?
The only reason it was an issue for me at all was trying to play Mario with a 18 month old watching, and having to occasionally hide the controller behind my back. It isn’t a case I’m especially concerned about, and I’ll probably need to buy more joycons eventually anyways, but I’m wondering if there’s anything I should try to do about it.
Happens with mine, I had assumed I was sitting too far from the console, but if it’s an actual issue I will look into fixing it.
Hm. Quick googling suggests the previous issue was just the left controller, and my issue is with the right one, so seems unrelated? I notice that the right one is the one with the IR pointer on the bottom, so I wonder if there’s any connection there.
I should probably do some more tests to narrow it down (try undocked but wireless, different materials other than just my fat butt between them, etc)…but that seems like work.
I’m having the exact same connectivity problem with my right joy con. I’m sitting about 11-12 feet from the screen and guessing that’s the edge of range.
Thinking about moving the switch around my TV stand to bring it a foot or two closer and see if that will help. Unfortunately not easy due to the placement of power and cable routing and etc.
Diego
Yup me too, but not all the time. Could be a complete coincidence, but I’ve noticed this mostly when playing BotW. Could be how I am sitting/moving.
No; the range is meant to be over twice that. Joy-cons are class 2 bluetooth:
| Device Class | Transmit Power | Intended Range |
| Class 3 | 1 mW | less than 10 meters |
| Class 2 | 2.5 mW | 10 meters, 33 feet |
| Class 1 | 100 mW | 100 meters, 328 feet |
DF reported that the right joy-con would start seeing drops when obstructed at 5 meters:
Tweaktown tested the range to 37 feet:
