I’m glad the motherboard I’m gonna be using has a PS2 port. I could use a USB adapter for this Model M keyboard I’m rocking, but I prefer to straight PS2 connection. ;)
Straight PS/2 is actually better in many ways, because it offers unlimited key rollover, while USB is often, but not always, limited.
DVI is obsolete at this point. It’s only a problem with very old and grey-market Korean monitors, and you can just get a super-cheap passive converter so it’s not a big deal.
MS should activate your key with a simple phonecall. I’ve never had a problem. If you do need a new key, I suggest buying one for like $30 from kinguin.net. I bought a couple keys from them and they all work, for years now.
The big thing is hot swapping devices. PS/2 needs a full reboot almost always. I remember being really annoyed debugging older computers with only one set of K&M.
It shouldn’t need a reboot, but supposedly hot-popping a PS/2 device can short out the port. That may be an urban legend.
It is not a legend, I shorted out a port before.
They don’t work. You need an expensive $90 one and it’s limited to 60Hz at 1440p.
Hah so the key I was trying to activate windows with was incorrect. I got it through some app about a year ago, but now I found my original Win 7 OEM box and the key written there is different than the one from the app. And with this real key, the slui 3 command actually took it and activated my system, go figure. Pretty cool that this ancient key still works, kudos MS.
Here are couple videos from games I tested so far.
Forza Horizon 3 is ridiculously well optimized - 4K, Ultra, 8xMSAA and it keeps 60fps stable:
Mafia 3 finally runs at stable 60. I finished it twice already when it was dropping to 30s and 40s when driving, so this is a nice change. For some reason I love this game despite its flaws, so I am looking forward to replaying it once again someday (excuse my driving, been a while):
And of course, the GPU killer Kingdom Come, which “thanks” to shadowplay doesn’t actually keep 60fps rock stable and drops to fifties ocassionaly (but with shadowplay recording disabled, it does keep it):
Are you running Windows 7 or does the key work on a new install of Windows 10? I can’t remember if that’s still supposed to work.
It works on an old install of Windows 10 but on a new hardware. As in, I had WIndows 7 OEM, upgraded for free to Windows 10, that upgraded itself everal times with those anniversary and what not updates, and that same install is running now with all the hardware changed except hard drives.
Man, I am so excited to okay Forza Horizon 3. That looks great.
I use a $7 displayport->HDMI adapter myself. It works great. DVI is electrically compatible with HDMI. I think you’re right about the resolution limit, though.
so you use displayport->hdmi->DVI-D?
No, but HDMI and DVI are electrically compatible so a passive adapter is also guaranteed to work.
Thanks for this link. I know I could probably keep using my exiting Windows 7 / upgraded to 10 key somehow, but as I’m replacing not just the board, ram, and CPU but also the hard drive (and thus, a fresh install of the OS) I really don’t want to deal with the hassle. For $100 on Amazon for a key, I was still tempted, but for $30 my time is worth that much at least, so I’ll just get a key from these guys.
Well, calling Microsoft will take 20 minutes of your time and save thirty bucks, but sure.
Ryzen is kinda bizzare huh
So I was annoyed about why the wraith prism (coolest cheesiest name ever) keeps spinning up and down, up and down…so I downloaded core temp, and for some reason the CPU temperature keeps increasing and decreasing by around 10 C constantly, even when fully idle…
And apparently this is normal and every Ryzen does this? What?
I changed the fan curve in bios so it does not spin up anymore, but I still wonder, what the hell is this.
Good to know, thanks!
It is alive.
What motherboard and memory are you going with?
ASRock Z390 Extreme4, Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4.